ICR Vietnam - December 2024

 I'm delighted to be travelling with another group of amazing Willamette Law students on another ICR program.  This time we're in Vietnam studying child trafficking.  It is wonderfully hot and humid here and I'm so looking forward to watching everyone take it all in, learn, grow, and come together as a group.  This is my 4th Willamette Law international program.  On each program, I have been amazed and humbled by the group of students who are willing to come on these adventures.  I ask a lot of them -- I push them out of their comfort zones almost daily and generally ask them to reconsider much of what they think they already know. . . and to do it in circumstances that are often challenging.  Every single time I've been amazed by them -- they have shown kindness, good cheer, curiosity and a willingness to learn.  They are supportive of each other and genuinely interested in what we are learning and the people around us.  I could not be more proud to travel with these guys.  Joining me this time are:  

Andrew Stephens (his third program)

Francisco Luzania (his third program)

Emily Almeida (her second program)

Carly Dederick (first adventure)

Kylie Root (first adventure)

Jennifer Salazar (first adventure)

Tori Sparks (first adventure)

Andrew Yuan (first adventure)

And we're off -- come follow along!   Professor Buske

A Glimpse Into Community Outreach Work in Tanzania - by Alexa Bascon

On this day of our trip, we had two very exciting site visits to look forward to. Our first stop of the day was to Faraja Pallotti Arusha where our group had the opportunity to speak with Mary and Hidaya, two of the individuals who work there and gave us an overview of some of the work that they do. Pallotti is a wonderful organization created in 2013 that is dedicated to helping special needs children, their families, and their caretakers. Typically, they help children with physical disabilities. The aim of the organization is to teach the mamas/guardians so that they can help their children at home with physical therapy and so that they are more well informed overall about special needs and the ways they can help their children lead better and healthier lives. Pallotti provides physical therapy sessions for the children to help achieve this goal. Most of the clients who come here to Pallotti are referred by the hospital and Pallotti offers their services to them free of charge. They sometimes even offer transportation fee coverage when their finances permit. Typically, Faraja Pallotti Arusha helps between 40 to 50 clients per month on average, although if they advertise their services actively then they can get up to 100 clients in a month. They currently have 60 active clients that they assist on a regular basis. 

There are few places such as Pallotti in Tanzania that offer free therapy and other resources for special needs. One of the things that makes Pallotti unique in what they do, is their approach to physical therapy which is at odds with the local cultural beliefs of the country. At Pallotti, they believe that physical therapy should be fun and enjoyable for children, even though Tanzanian cultural belief is that there must be pain for progress to be made. The organization also seeks to dispel misinformation among families with special needs children who hold the misinformed idea that the reason their child has disabilities is because of witchcraft. This education is extremely important for these children because, in many cases, they would otherwise be hidden away at home due to shame and preconceived notions of what it means to have and care for a special needs child. One aspect of the program that really stood out to me personally when Mary and Hidaya were talking to us is when they informed us that they often have the mamas of the children link up together after physical therapy sessions for tea and community support for each other. I think this is such an incredible asset to the program that they not only care for the wellbeing of the children, but also for the caretakers because it is very common and normal for caretakers to feel overwhelmed and stressed by their role and having an outlet to be able to vent and share with others who understand their situation personally is incredibly valuable. Mary and Hidaya were both so lovely, welcoming, and knowledgeable, and it was a privilege to get to spend time with the and understand all that they have achieved for their community. 

On our next site visit, we went and visited Inherit Your Rights and spoke with the Community Outreach Department and the Legal Aid Department. Winnie, their Director of Operations, gave our student group a general overview of how Inherit Your Rights operates and the main goals and challenges that it faces as well as sharing some facts and figures regarding women and children in Tanzania. Inherit Your Rights' core mission is to educate widows on their right to inherit, and above all, seeks to eradicate gender-based injustice through education and advocacy. Awareness, access, and action are the primary ways that the organization works to achieve this mission. They raise awareness of women's rights through seminars, community training events, short educational courses, and promotional media. They create access to justice for women in the community by offering free legal aid services to women and girls in need and they equip women to take action to fight for their rights through their community advisor program and legal procedure training program. 

Within the country, there is a lack of awareness of the law that grants widows property rights of their husband upon his death. This unawareness is typically due to the customary laws in the nation. Under customary law, a widow has no right to inherit land and often has no right to own land at all. One of the biggest challenges Inherit Your Rights faces is overcoming customary law because, although customary law does not control on paper, it does in practice. Cultural traditions and practices often clash with access and execution of justice in the nation. Inherit Your Rights works to break down these cultural barriers to justice through their method of awareness, access, and action, with which they are able to educate women and their communities to know and understand what rights they do legally possess, provide an access channel for these women to bring their claims to court by offering free legal aid services, and equip them to take action themselves to defend their rights through their legal procedure mentoring program. Because of these amazing efforts, in 2021, Inherit Your Rights was successful in providing legal and human rights training to over 10,000 people, provide free legal aid and counseling services to 127 women, and equipped 90 women to become Community Advisors through their community advisor program. 

These two wonderful organizations speak to the progress that is being made in Tanzania to create resources that work to improve upon child welfare in the country. They were both fantastic organizations to have been able to gain valuable insight from and to learn about their core missions and values and what community resources they utilize to further those missions and what they still hope to achieve in the future.

Makumira Univeristy Law School Visit - by Andrew Stephens

Today was our visit to Tumaini University Makumira to see their law school program and have a Moot Court debate that paired two Willamette students with two of their students. The topic of the debate was a recent Tanzanian decision in their High Court that would raise the minimum age of marriage of women from 16 to 18 years old. The minimum age for men is already set at 18 years old. The law school system is different in Tanzania than it is in the United States, the students we visited with today are in an undergrad program and those that want to become licensed attorneys will need to complete a post grad degree. There are many differences compared to Willamette Law, but for being undergrads in a totally different program, it was really fun to talk to the students about their passion for law. They were very curious to learn about us and what we’re doing.

Our visit started with a meeting with Dr. Benedict Maige Nchalla, the Dean of the Law School program as well as the founding member of the faculty and former judge, Professor John Ruhangisa, along with the students that would be participating in the debate. They briefed us on how the debate would go and what to expect. James and Sarah S. bravely volunteered to do the debate that would be in front of over 300 students. Professor Buske offered Sarah G. to be the presiding judge of the debate because it was her birthday and seemed like the appropriate choice. They all split off with the students they’d be working with and the rest of us went with a student, David, to take a tour of the school and property, going to different classes and introducing ourselves. It’s a beautiful campus and we got to see the dorms where most students and faculty live, the library, cafeteria, and the Cultural Arts Center that has an amazing music and dance program.

The students on the tour returned to the classroom that would host the debate. While waiting for the debate and everyone involved to get there, Professor Buske engaged with the 300 students in the room and had those on the tour talk about our laws for marriage in the United States. We talked about how there are different age requirements depending on which state you live in and that the minimum age is generally 18 years old, but some states allow marriage at 16. That concept of different states having different laws instead of a universal age for the country was a little hard for some to grasp. But one student pointed out that the students in the room represent over 120 different tribes in Tanzania, each with slightly different cultural norms so the concept wasn’t totally foreign to them.

When the debate was ready to begin, the participating students came into the room dressed in black robes and made quite the entrance. After the introduction by the presiding judge, Sarah G, each side had 30 minutes to present their case followed by a 15-minute rebuttal for the proponents. Even though everyone had a minimal amount of time to prep for this debate, they all did a great job and our Willamette classmates said they really enjoyed working with the Makumira students. We all felt so welcomed by the students and faculty and it was a very unique and cool experience for us. Professor Buske taught here many years ago and it was a great idea to incorporate this into the trip to get a better understanding of what legal education looks like in Tanzania.

We finished the day with a full tour of the campus with everyone and we got to sit in a Business and Human Rights class taught by the Dean. He had us compare some of our experiences relating to that topic in America and the students were able to ask us questions. It was interesting to get an idea of what classes are like and how the material is taught. We also got to visit with the music students and sit in on a jam session in their outdoor auditorium. It was beautiful music and they even worked in a birthday song for Sarah. After the tour we went to a nearby restaurant where we met with the students and faculty that participated in the debate and handed out awards. It was a great way to finish a wonderful day!

Night Walk - by James Dunning

 Moving through the streets of Arusha at night is an experience that is impossible to prepare for. It seemed the entire city was alive. We began by meeting our escorts at the bus station. This is a place where people from all over the country are coming and going, recently increased by the president opening the country up to 24hr bus travel.

 At 8pm the staff from Amani Children’s Center brief two of us from the law school on what we should expect from the evening. The Center’s purpose for this activity is to remain in contact with children who are living both part and full time on the streets. Despite the hustle and bustle all around, because of our foreign origin it was impossible for our presence to go unnoticed. Considering the late hour, we were told to be aware of people who might have opportunistic intentions, yet at no time did anyone display actions which could be interpreted as dangerous.

 After leaving the congestion of the station, our first stop was to visit an arcade. Here children were huddled around television screens playing video games. The business provides an environment of safety, but also exploits them, any money they spend there is precious resource. We were introduced to some of the boys around the area. These kids are living in circumstances that require them to present themselves in a way that conveys their freedom and independence, they portrayed an adult style of bravado.

 Staff from Amani put in constant effort to encourage the boys to leave the street lifestyle and building trust is a critical component of this work. The factors causing street life to be the preference for these children are deeply complex. The type of services available to them are very different from those provided to youth in the United States. There is an enormous resistance to any level of authority and receiving the level of support that comes with residential placement means a loss of autonomy. This results in a cycle of voluntary commitment, only to be followed by escaping back into what is perceived as a life that allows for choice and self-determination.

 Continuing with the evening from the arcade, we are joined by a street child who goes by the name of Junior. At our introduction he exhibits a swagger of someone who knows showing fragility could have disastrous consequences.  For a 16 year-old, he has undoubtedly had to harden himself in a way uncharacteristic of housed adolescents in his peer group. The outward appearance of confidence slowly softens as the night proceeds. A young man who noticeably desires the nurturing and validation of the adult staff members begins to be revealed.

 As we walk there is noticeable evidence of street kid activity. In several areas supplies are staged in preparation of sleep. Large vinyl sacks are common material used for warmth and sheets of cardboard adapted as bedding. The boys form unique bonds, something similar to what we think of as a gang, which help them to look out for one another. This can make things especially difficult when a new kid arrives. It is not easy to gain acceptance into a group. While passing by the local sports complex we find a group of boys hanging out, playing music, and dancing. This is where they will also be spending the night. Nearby there is an area prepared with all the supplies for sleeping. Junior is not welcome here among this group and he quietly slips away back into the night.

 Through the darkness of desperation that exists here there are glimmers of hope that provide beacons to those in need. Drawing the night to its conclusion, the team from Amani introduces us to a community champion back at the bus station who assist in the effort to identify and intervene with street children at the earliest opportunity. A neighborhood “mama” operates a food service station among the congestion of people and vehicles. She explains to us why it’s important to contribute to this tireless work. Being a mother, it’s easy for her to imagine her own children falling into the same situation regularly occurring within the community she cares about. Enlisting the help of these people which are embedded in the community is a critical part of Amani’s outreach.

 Staying connected to boys living on the street is a significantly large element of the night walks, but it is also tremendously important that when a girl loses the safety of familial protection they are not allowed to remain there. Preventing young girls from being exposed to the risks of street life is of particular emphasis. From the moment they are identified by community volunteers or police, staff from Amani will immediately seek her out for admission into the program. Young girls are not as oppositional and fear the consequences they may face if left to survive on their own.

 This experience will remain with me forever. While there are children who face similar challenges in the United States, the situation in Arusha feels much more helpless. I am inspired by the care and dedication the outreach staff of Amani showed that night. They are an amazing organization and I hope what I have learned in the short time with them will benefit me in helping children back home.

A Look Into Tanzanian Healthcare - by Tina Thao

     Access to healthcare is a basic right. However, healthcare, whether it be the system, facilities, or doctors, is drastically different in Tanzania than how it is in the United States. We were able to learn more about healthcare in Tanzania when we visited Selian Lutheran Hospital, a pediatric hospital that predominantly serves Maasai. From its opening in 1954 with a single building, Selian Lutheran Hospital has expanded the facilities and services it provides. It provides outpatient, labor and delivery, surgical, medical, prenatal, and emergency care. 

    Liza - the first Maasai pediatric woman doctor, graciously gave some of her time to give us a tour of the hospital and answered our questions. She had only been at this hospital for a year but told us about some of the problems  Tanzanians face. For example, insulin is extremely difficult for Tanzanians to obtain. Not only do most people not own fridges or have access to fridges, which is required for the storage of insulin, but it is also too expensive. The majority of the population cannot even afford food, so they cannot afford the insulin. However, if a person can afford insulin, they have to go to the pharmacy for each dose which could take hours depending on how far they live.

    Another healthcare problem that Tanzanias experience is Female Genitialia Manipulation (FGM). There are many complications that result from this, specifically labor complications which include excessive bleeding that can result in death. At this hospital, Liza has provided labor services for girls as young as 16 with FGM. 

    The most chronic health challenge that children in Tanzania face is malnutrition because the rate of poverty is high. In addition, Liza said that the Maasai do not believe in eating vegetables so the majority of their diet consists of meat and carbs. However, with time and education, she has noticed a shift and increase of vegetables intake by her Maasai patients.

    In addition, I was surprised by how different the hospital system in Tanzania is compared to the United States. When patients come to the hospital, food is not provided, even if they are there for a prolonged period of time. The patient’s family must bring them food for each meal or they will not eat. A family member would have to take time away from other responsibilities such as work, to go back and forth to the hospital to ensure the patient is fed. This would seem to be an added burden to a family or patient during a vulnerable time. From my experience of hospital stays in the United States, breakfast, lunch, and dinner are provided by the hospital and I was able to make requests or changes. 

    Another difference we discussed with Liza was labor. At this hospital, up to four women can give birth at the same time, in the same room. Due to privacy issues, husbands are not allowed in the delivery room. Although I have not had any children, I cannot imagine not having my husband in the delivery room with me during what I believe to be one of the scariest and life changing moments in a woman’s life.

    In comparison to what Tanzanians have, I feel extremely privileged. I dread going to the doctors while some in Tanzania can’t even afford to go. I have the privilege of free healthcare from the government because I am a student and cannot afford it myself. Liza is an example of the resilience Tanzanians have. As a mother of two and the first woman pediatric Maasai doctor, she shows that even with the struggles, a person can persevere.

Art, Fabric, and Tanzania Culture - by Sarah Griffith

    Previously, we had stopped in the markets to go to the fabric stores. These iconic locations offer a variety of colorful fabrics sold for Tanzanians to have clothing and household items made at a local tailor. The fabrics are unlike anything in the States; their vivid, bright colors and integral patterns are iconic in Africa. The fabrics range in various thicknesses; some are coated in light wax; our group purchased material for multiple purposes. Some for clothing, like dresses and shirts, and some for tablecloths, linens, napkins, and bags. It’s a unique experience, as most of us are only familiar with big box fabric stores with generic, single-color, and print designs.

Today, we took our fabrics to a tailor to support the local economy and bring home distinctive gifts from our voyage. This outing to the tailor was such a fantastic experience, as we soon learned that they could also make custom suits, which, as future attorneys, many of us need. Individually, we took turns visiting with the tailor, discussing with them what we wanted to be made, getting fitted, and chatting about their ideas of how the fabric would work best for our creative ideas. The suits were such a bonus for us as we weren’t expecting to be able to get that done. Professor Buske knew the tailor because his wife, Winnie, is the attorney for the non-governmental organization (NGO) Inherit Your Rights. The tailor's shop was in a neighborhood we otherwise wouldn’t have been in, that most “tourists” wouldn’t go to, and it was great to interact with individuals we otherwise wouldn’t have the opportunity to meet.

We then headed to the Arusha Cultural Heritage Center. The center hosts a museum that displays past artifacts from the tribes of Tanzania. The museum building boasts the most extensive collection of African art. The museum has an incredible collection of art from all over Africa, not only paintings and photographs but artifacts like weapons, food storage, voodoo dolls, wood carvings, colonial pieces, and animal replicas made of iron. There is an astonishing collection of African masks, which show a fantastic insight into African culture. African communities are well known for their craftwork, and masks are considered a specialty craft. Every typical African ceremony had to have a mask, and the masks were displayed with information about the tribe and the ceremony used. Different ceremonies had different masks. Depending on who wore the mask and what it was used for determining what it was made of, the materials included everything from paper, metals, bones, shells, beads, cloth material, animal skins, and even human hair. The one that intrigued me the most was the label Curse Mask. This mask was used when an individual knew they would pass away in the near future, and they would cut off their dreadlocks and then attach them to the mask to ward off evil spirits. This mask was exciting and terrifying, but I’m a fan of horror movies, so maybe that’s why I was drawn to it. There was also a bronze mask from Nigeria, with a large face and multiple faces coming off of it like serpents. This mask looked like it would be used to ward off evil spirits. However, it was to show how beautiful women from Nigeria were, and it was enormous because being “fat” was a sign of how healthy taken care of the people were. The serpents represent power and convey protection to the community. The sheer volume and variety of masks, where they came from, and what they were used for was more than one person could take in on a single day, and I sincerely hope that I get the chance to come back and view them again.

Additionally, there was a display of musical instruments that were artifacts but could still be played and sounded like bass guitars. They were 8 feet tall, styled like older men, and hunched over. Their bellies were where the strings were, and I couldn’t believe they could still be played and sounded so good. The instruments were works of art, yet still practical and genuinely unique.

I was out of time, but the guide had to show me one last thing: the African Mona Lisa. An established African artist did this incredible oil painting of two lions. The African Mona Lisa is called because the lioness's eyes follow you wherever you walk. I tested this theory and walked back and forth in front of the painting. Sure enough, her eyes tracked me, and I thought, this must be what gazelles feel like.

            We left the museum and drove to the Amani house for street children. This was an extension of the program that was established in Moshi. The building was constructed as a shelter for street children who needed rescue, and the program consisted of two prongs. The first is to help the children found on the street; social workers go out at night, talk to them, and try to get them to come to the shelter to give them protection, food, clothing, and safety. They work with the kids to identify why they left home and work to connect the kids back to the family; the children range in age from 6-17. The second part of the program is for girls who have been sexually assaulted or abused and need a location to stay before their case comes before the court. Amani works with these girls, giving them counseling and social workers to help them through their cases. They provide them with a place to stay as the community ostracizes them after the assault.

Additionally, many of the girls have been assaulted by family members and, therefore, don’t have a safe place to go. Sadly, the director told us that most of the cases never go to trial because the families try to work it out with themselves, and many times come to take the girls away before the case is taken to court. As if being assaulted isn’t horrible enough, if the girls end up pregnant, they aren’t allowed to go back to school and are left with little to no options for supporting themselves. Amani helps them by teaching them trades, such as being a seamstress, allowing them to support themselves. Overall, Amani gives these children the help they so desperately need.

            When we arrive, the children are playing soccer in the courtyard, and you can immediately tell they are happy and safe. The director tells us about the programs, and the children are eventually asked to come inside so that we can meet them. They sit in rows and act as all children do; some are shy and hide their faces, and some are smiling, staring at us curiously. They tell us their ages and what they want to be when they grow up. They are adorable and say things like being president, doctor, teacher, and pilot. Then they want to sing for us, and their little personalities shine. The obvious theater kids lead the group, as the shy ones stick to the back, trying not to be noticed. It's James' birthday today, and they sing happy birthday in both English and Swahili; then they even give him a gift of a bag full of lollipops, which he shares with the children, winning them over one by one. It’s easy to see that these children are cared for and loved, and it gives me hope that programs like these exist for them. I’m thankful for the time the director spends with us, allowing us to interact with the kids. We tour the facility and learn about their day-to-day lives, how they are expected to contribute with chores, where they go to school, and how the adults ensure that each and every one of them is cared for.

            Overall, it’s been a fantastic day. I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience Africa, learn about its history, and see where the country is headed. I can’t help but think about how children are the same no matter where you go. They are all so innocent and sweet. They need love and care and adults who know how precious they are.

Two models for enacting change: focus on the few or offer help to all - by Sarah Schra

 Our two site visits today were both non-government organizations[1] (NGOs) that focus on disadvantaged children and how to ensure their success in adulthood.

    The first visit of the day was to Amani Children’s Center in Moshi.

    It was started by three local Tanzanians and a Peace Corps volunteer in a small neighborhood home that was previously a pig-farm. The primary purpose of Amani was—and is—to provide a safe place for street children to sleep, bathe, eat, and imagine a future where they are not living on the street. In the last twenty years Amani has expanded their services, and now there is a full-time residential facility in Moshi, a drop-in center in downtown Arusha, and a part-time residential facility for survivors of physical and sexual assault. The Arusha facility for assault survivors provides counseling and education services until completion of the trial of the perpetrator since family and community members often exert pressure on the children to change their testimony or drop the case. Once the trial is completed, if it is safe for the survivor to be reunified with family they return home, and if not, they are either placed at the residential center in Moshi until they complete their schooling, or given vocational training and support to start a business venture.  The Tanzanian government recognizes Amani as a partner in facilitating services to juveniles, and often will contact Amani social workers to assist juveniles who are detained in jail due to conflict with law enforcement. Child Welfare also will refer children to Amani and Amani then places them in appropriate care or assists with reunification with their families if it is safe to do so. Amani has a policy of accepting any and all street children who desire their services. They have social workers who do bi-weekly outreach on the streets of Arusha, developing relationships with the street children, and encouraging them to come to Amani to complete their education, learn a vocational skill, and receive support for their future success.

    We spoke at length with Janet Agaba, the Communications and Fundraising Manager at Amani, and she shared that Amani has the most success with children who are relatively new to life on the street. Children who have lived on the street for a long period of time are much less likely to leave that life behind and adapt to the structured life at Amani (school, life skills, routines, etc.).  The majority of the children at Amani ignored us while we toured their facility and walked the grounds. A few were willing to talk to us, but most of them paid us no mind. The Amani staff were happy to let us photograph the facilities, but we were not allowed to take any photographs of the children.

    Our second site visit was to NEEMA International, where we were given a tour by Magreth Upendo, the Director of Partnerships and Communication.

    NEEMA was founded by a young American woman who, after visiting Tanzania with her parents in her late teens, wanted to provide education services to Tanzanian children. NEEMA’s model is quite different from Amani in that they only serve a small number of children, and often have to turn children away. NEEMA has three main programs on-site, but each program has its own dedicated structures separated by large stone walls due to government regulations and licensing restrictions. NEEMA operates a school, a permanent residence, and a second-chance program for older children who either dropped out of school or were unable to continue attending school because of family poverty or other disadvantaged circumstances. Child Welfare also partners with NEEMA to place children who are in unsafe home environments, but NEEMA is only able to accept a small number of children into their residential school program—limited by the amount of funding from donors and capacity determined by government regulations surrounding boarding schools. NEEMA’s teacher to child ratio is 1:13, where the ration in public schools is often more than 1:70.  In contrast to the children at Amani, the children at NEEMA appeared to be coached for our arrival, they stopped playing to gather and sing us a welcome song (a bit reluctantly) and then when directed went back to their soccer game and playground equipment. The children also were corralled later to sing a thank-you/farewell song. Magreth offered several times for us to take pictures with the children, whereas the Amani staff allowed us to only photograph empty spaces with no children. NEEMA’s classrooms were all very well appointed and had state-of-the-art doors. It is the nicest school facility we have yet seen. The children at NEEMA seemed to associate our presence with gifts/money/support, whereas the children at Amani seemed curious but largely indifferent to our presence.

    The children at both programs were healthy, seemed well-adjusted, and very happy. The NEEMA children were all wearing matching athletic uniforms and reminded me of prep school students. The Amani children were in normal clothing, doing laundry, and playing the way carefree happy children play in the US. The two models raise the question: Is it better to pour immense resources into a select few children or to distribute resources to all children who need it? Regardless of which model you believe is best, the children who are served by each of these organizations are lucky to have access to education and life-skills training that they would not otherwise have. In this way, each organization is filling a need.

    We finished the day by going to the Moshi market and Tina got an amazing avocado. The people are so warm here, and the produce is amazing. I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to learn about this country and meet these beautiful people.

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[1] NGO: A non-governmental organization that generally is formed independent from government. They are typically nonprofit entities, and many of them are active in humanitarianism or the social sciences.