Days Nine & Ten: Final Days by Andrew Yuan

 

I'm sitting here in the Hoi An Historic Hotel lobby. Starting with Friday, December 20th, the programming had reached the in-country conclusion (with the exception of finals assignments, but more on that later). The majority of the day had been relatively uneventful. Many people spent time resting in their rooms or going on simple walks. A few people visited tailors in their downtime. I know I did.

Our group's activities truly picked up that evening around 7:15 P.M.. This time for dinner, we wandered the streets of Old Town Ha Noi. This dinner was spent eating street food from local vendors. Our selections included frog, octopus tentacle, chicken and vegetable kabobs, grilled rice paper (with toppings), mango ice cream, mango sticky rice, fried potatoes, grilled cheese, and corn.

To me this act was important. Not only was it amongst the last that we did as a group, but it held cultural weight in Vietnam. There are street food vendors all over Hoi An (and Saigon as well!), and was a method of earning income for many locals. From this angle it seemed fitting that we participate in this activity, at least in some capacity. We ended the evening by sitting riverside and enjoying one another's company.

The next morning, in my view, was another simple cultural activity. After our breakfast at the hotel we meet with a local tour guide who gave us each a set of keys to scooters. After a quick lesson, we rode the scooters from location to location. Riding the scooters, was a simple act. However, scooters are extremely prominent in Vietnam. By learning to ride, we participated in a significant cultural activity. An act similar in spirit to eating the street food the the night before.

The first stop was a small local Buddhist temple. The tour guides showed us statues of unicorns and pointed out the significant symbols of Yin & Yang which are important spiritual symbols in Vietnamese culture. We could not enter the temple because it was closed for visits during most of the year - it is typically only open during the Lunar New Year.

We stopped at a local shoe making factory which had to be located outside of Old Town due to the noise of the machines. They showed us the process of making shoes there, which was interestingly made from paper.

After this we enjoyed some Bahn Mi and a light refreshment, nearby the river, where we got to enjoy the view of the river and Old Town from a different angle.  From here the group traveled to see where the fishing boats of Hoi An were docked.  Interestingly, the boats were boarded by way of a type of dock called a 'monkey bridge'.  Interestingly the boats had eyes painted on them, this is important to note because it protected the fishermen and warded off bad spirits.

The group then traveled to see where rice paper was made.   A process using the sun, to form the paper, which is then cooked into rice crackers of noodles. From there, our guide showed us where local herbs were grown in the vegetable garden. This was an important stop because it displayed the production process of food that is widely consumed here in Hoi An.

We ended this 4-hour tour of Hoi An by stopping at a lantern production shop where lanterns are made. These lanterns are culturally significant here. They were brought by Chinese traders centuries ago and serve to protect the lantern owners from bad spirits.

We then returned to the hotel for a few more hours of downtime before our final group meal.  Professor Buske suggested the Tok Restaurant. Everyone got to pick a place to eat thus far, and this was hers. It is quietly situated outside of Old Town, and served wonderful dishes fitting for our final meal as a group. One that would not be in this capacity together again. This meal marked the end of our time in Hoi An, and the end of our time in Vietnam. With only our final reflections, our final exam, and the road home ahead of us. It was truly the end of our adventure.

 

Day Nine:Exploring Hoi An Old Town and Visiting NGOs by Emily Almeida

 

We were given some free time the morning of our first full day in Hoi An, Viet Nam, which was very appreciated by our group of weary travelers. Having the opportunity to sleep in after our early wakeup call the morning prior was much appreciated, especially considering the busy day that we all had ahead of us. 

As I’m sure you’ve noticed through reading the blog posts about this trip, goods and services in Viet Nam are a fraction of the price that they’d typically be in the United States. From teeth cleanings for the equivalent of $20 USD to meals for about $2, everything seems to cost less that it’d be back home. As soon-to-be lawyers, many of us had our interest piqued in tailoring services, specifically in order to have a tailored suit made. With a few recommendations in our hands from locals and other hotel guests, some of us spent our Thursday morning hitting the town with this goal in mind. 

I ended up at a tailor called ‘Blue Chic’ in Old Town, joined by Andrew Y., and I went through the process of picking fabrics for my suit while he inquired about having some bowties made. 

After ordering everything, we received instructions to return the next morning, and we began to walk around together, talking about anything that came to mind as we peered down rows of shops and enjoyed the cooler weather. 

We ended our time in the city that morning with a coffee stop, where our conversations continued, interrupted occasionally by merchants ducking into the shop to try and sell their wares to the patrons inside. 

One of my favorite parts of these trips has to be the bonds that are made between students, and the opportunities that we have to process different things that we’ve experienced in our conversations with each other. Andrew Y. started at Willamette Law a year after me, and though I didn’t know him too well prior to setting off on this adventure together, getting to know him and learn with him- as well as all of our other classmates- has been one of the highlights of this trip for me. Those little moments that we get to connect with one another are so appreciated, especially knowing that we’ll be working alongside many of our peers before we know it, and those connections truly make the learning we do on these trips all the more impactful. 

With the afternoon quickly approaching, Andrew and I returned to the hotel in order to meet up with the rest of our classmates. We took a twenty-minute walk in some light rain to Noodle House by Streets. Streets is an NGO that provides culinary and hospitality training to disadvantaged and vulnerable youth living in poverty. The training process is 14 months, and while students complete the program, they are also provided housing, a budget for living, healthcare, and life skills training.  

Streets offers a restaurant, called Noodle House, and a cooking class, called ‘Oodles of Noodles’, where some of the students of the program teach tourists how to make the different noodle dishes that they offer. We were a bit short on time on Thursday, so we opted to just grab lunch at the restaurant while we learned about the NGO. Our food was delicious and knowing that we were giving back to such a fantastic organization simply by having lunch made the experience all the better. 

After lunch, we ordered some Grabs (the equivalent of Uber or Lyft here) and drove a few miles away to visit CHiA, Children’s Hope in Action. CHiA is an NGO solely funded by private donors, and they are dedicated to improving the lives of economically disadvantaged children and families in Hoi An. They provide multiple programs to meet different needs, including funds for utilities, home building services, supplementary funds for educational expenses, and- what ended up being the focus our visit- physical and occupational therapy for disabled youth in the neighborhood. 

We learned that CHiA serves 12 children currently, all different ages and with different needs. We were joined multiple times by these children throughout our conversation with the Director of CHiA, and we all enjoyed the opportunity to multitask between speaking with the Director and playing with the kids. CHiA has over 20 children still on the waitlist to receive their disability-focused services, we learned, and over 60 on the waitlist to receive benefits from other programs. 

The Director explained that disabled children still face incredible bias from their communities here in Viet Nam. She told us the story of one of their kids who was outright denied the opportunity to play with another girl in her neighborhood by the girl’s parent. CHiA allows these kids to play with each other while experiencing occupational and physical therapy, and the Director informed us that the volunteers also bring their children in so that the kids have the opportunity to play with other children outside of the program. 

When we organized the visit to CHiA, we were informed of the importance of us visiting their facility in-person during their hours of operation for the children’s program. They explained that having visitors would draw attention to their organization from others on the street, would hopefully work to combat the explicit bias still present in their community, and would also contribute to the occupational goals of the children in the program. Having the opportunity to visit with CHiA and meet all the kids was so important, and something that many of us felt was one of the most impactful experiences of the trip. 

That evening, we all gathered in one of the hotel meeting spaces to discuss some of the things we had seen on the trip so far, and some of our thoughts about the different programs we learned about on Thursday, as well as how they help to combat the trafficking epidemic in this country. Our class discussions are always appreciated, as they give us the time and space to verbally process some of the ways that our learning has impacted us. 

Our night ended at a French Café in Old Town, where we all enjoyed some fantastic meals and time together. It’s hard to believe that our program is over halfway done, but I think I speak for everyone when I say that this experience has been absolutely unmatched and educational in ways that none of us could have ever imagined.

 

Day Eight: Giving It Back to the Kids by Andrew Stephens

 We all woke up early today to fly out of Saigon and headed to Hoi An. There is always something sad about waking up on your last day in a city you’ve visited for the first time. It’s also difficult to leave when you have had an amazing time. Everyone in the group was excited for the next leg of the trip, but Saigon is a special place, and we all made great memories while here. I could go on about the coffee, the food, the people, and the energy the city has. It was so unexpectedly wonderful and I can’t wait to come back.

The airport was hectic. More so than we were expecting for a domestic flight. Lines move slowly. Everyone is in a rush. But once we checked our bags and got through security, it was an easy flight to Hoi An. When we first stepped outside of the Hoi An airport, it was cooler and noticeably quieter than Saigon. In many ways it was a refreshing feeling after being in the city for a couple of weeks.

We loaded into the van and made a stop before going to our hotel at an NGO called Giving it Back to Kids. We met with the Vice President Tham (didn’t get her last name) to learn more about how they got started and what they do. You could tell she has given this talk before and had lots of good information about their operation. Giving it back to kids is a non-profit organization helping the families and children of Vietnam through nutrition, housing, medical care and education

Giving it Back to Kids founder, Robert Kalatschan, and his wife Dorothea were unable to have children. In their desire to start a family, they began investigating fertility treatments and meeting with doctors. They ended up going to Saigon with hopes of adopting a child and in that process ended up adopting their daughter. After returning to the United States, they couldn’t stop thinking about the other children they saw while they were there. They felt like there was a reason they came to Vietnam and that was the beginning of the non-profit.

Tham told us that people ask what they do. She said “they help kids. It’s that simple.” I have never seen an NGO like this before. They do a lot of everything. If a child needs a bike to get to school, they’ll provide it. If that same child needs something else years later, they’ll help accommodate that too. They are not one dimensional. They do outreach to rural Vietnamese people that are most vulnerable to human trafficking and forced labor. They work with disabled children and those that have been orphaned. It was refreshing to hear their story and what they do.

We ended up talking to her for about an hour. It was a great way to start our time in Hoi An, knowing that there are organizations and people here in Vietnam doing amazing work. Their administrative costs are less than 5% of their annual budget. It’s rare to find an organization that is legitimate and more than a feel-good operation and I was happy to know they’re out here doing good things in the world.

Day Seven: Coffee, Wagon Wheel and SOS Village by Tori Sparks

 Honestly, as silly as this may sound, when I found out that we were required to write a blog post, I felt intimidated. It is a bit difficult for me to put an experience into words. I often feel that I am not vibrant enough in my writing to adequately describe the experience for a reader, let alone the energy and emotions that were felt during. I simply feel that I can’t do the moment justice. Grappling with that feeling is hard when the moment is a core memory or a crucial part of an overall journey. Nonetheless, I am excited to share my experience with you all. Come along for the journey. 

We started our day with the most important meal: coffee. While in Saigon – we were told by locals that many of them still refer to Ho Chi Minh City as Saigon – we had a centrally located hotel in the midst of a litany of businesses. One in particular caught our heart, stomach, and wallets. Nghe Coffee, which was ran by Manoel, quickly became a favorite. By the end of the trip, I am certain we tried every single thing that he had to offer. My personal favorite was either the egg coffee or the salt coffee. To be quite frank, I am terrified that I will never have a good cup of coffee again following this trip. When I say I could drink this stuff by the buckets, I am not exaggerating. 

This spot became ours. The hotel was about a 2–3-minute walk, depending on our confidence level when crossing the wonderfully chaotic street. Manoel would see us and instantly light up. He would yell out “my friends,” and wave at us enthusiastically. We all truly adored him, and I believe he adored us. His energy was inviting and felt genuine. The conversations had at our tables will forever be engrained in my mind and heart. A cup of coffee became much more meaningful. It was a place where we bonded, had deep conversations, shared our perspectives, experiences, and A LOT of laughter. If you ever find yourself in Saigon, go see our friend and try every single one of his coffee options. You will not regret it. 

Much to Professor Buske’s dismay, we found ourselves wanting to try Western food during our stay. While deciding lunch, we saw our opportunity and quickly went for it. We giddily walked to Wagon Wheel, which was a couple of blocks from our hotel. We were all very curious to try the food and experience Saigon’s take on our typical comfort food. Spoiler alert, it was delicious. Upon walking in, it was very western themed. Imagine a Cracker Barrel mixed with Texas Roadhouse, and you have Wagon Wheel. Modern country music was playing, and those old Coca-Cola signs were on the wall. I recall someone making the joke that we were transported back home upon entering the restaurant. 

The menu had the standard Western comfort foods. We, of course, ordered a round of onion rings and bacon balls for the table. When our waitress asked us what sauces we would like to dip our appetizers in, I do not think she expected our answer…. “All of them, please.” The first thing I noticed was the portion sizes. During our other dining experiences in Saigon, the portion sizes were moderate, but filling. It felt like just enough, but not too much or overly gluttonous. However, the burger that I ordered was the size of my head. This was a comfort stop for us. Speaking for myself, I started to feel homesick at this point of the trip. Not only homesick, but it was my turn to catch the bug that was being passed around our group. While this food was comforting, I will say that I much prefer the traditional dishes we were served at our other meal. I always felt a lot more energized and not… gross, following a traditional meal. As small as a dining experience may feel, I often thought about how I felt post-meal in Vietnam versus back home. Why do I always feel overly full after a meal back home? Why do I feel so sleepy after a meal back home? Why does the food back home not feel like I am fueling my body? Why did I not feel this way when I ate meals in Vietnam? It truly made me stop and consider what we put in our food back home and how it negatively impacts our overall health. I can go on a huge tangent about this topic in particular, but I have more things to write about! 

We had a small break between lunch and our planned site visit with SOS Village. I was really excited about this site visit, because I thought it was such a unique model, and I was looking forward to seeing the village and how it worked in-person. I was deeply moved by what I saw in the village. In my opinion, this organization is truly remarkable. Many people may not realize that the child welfare system in the United States often lacks consistency, leaving many children to fend for themselves once they age out of foster care. I can drone on about my thoughts and opinions on our system, however, that would quickly become a law review article. 

A bit of background on the organization: 

SOS was created after World War II by Hermann Gmeiner after noticing the significant number of children who lost their parental figures due to the war. Speculating, as I can’t say with 100% certainty, but Hermann must have witnessed a lot of first-hand accounts, as he was actually an Austrian soldier during this time. Nonetheless, he was moved and opened the first SOS Village in Imst. 

Today, SOS operates 17 villages across Vietnam, with many more around the world. The Saigon village is the largest in Vietnam, consisting of 20 homes, each led by a housemother who serves as the primary caregiver for 8 to 9 children. In addition to the housemothers, the children are also supported by “aunties” who help provide care and nurture. 

The village is home to two schools, and several SOS villages also include health centers. While this particular village did not have a health center, I think there was one in close proximity. The children not only live and learn here but are supported through their university education as well. Even after they grow up, they are always welcomed back into the community and encouraged to stay connected with their family. 

The village itself is absolutely beautiful, serene, and feels so warm. There are pathways lined with greenery and trees. It felt very peaceful walking throughout the village. We got plenty of waves and warm welcomes from the families that resided there. One family opened up their home to us and allowed us to come inside. It was full of books, photographs of the family, and genuine love. This home had a very small infant, and it was beautiful to see the older children taking care of their younger sibling. The bond the children had with each other and their mom was obvious and real. There is no other way to describe it other than the feeling of warmth and love. I am honestly getting emotional while writing this portion of the blog, because I can just feel it all over again. 

While we were there, we had the joy of meeting the children—who, though not pictured out of respect for their privacy, are bright, loving, and vibrant. We had a blast playing badminton, talking with them, taking photographs (at their request), and just learning more about their daily life. We were asked multiple times if we ate at Taco Bell, to which we responded “absolutely.” This one little boy in particular touched my heart. I think it is because he reminded me of my little brother. In the midst of the energy of the other children, he was very quiet and soft-spoken. At his request, I showed him pictures of my animals back home and we bonded over a shared love of cats. He told me all about his “fat and old cat,” whom he clearly loved. He was a very kind and thoughtful soul and truly touched my life. 

While touring, we learned that due to Vietnam reaching a certain status in regard to children being protected and being at a place where there is less of a risk, the organization is moving funding towards different countries that are considered to have a greater need. 

This decision has caused the village we visited to shut down some of the houses. In addition, there is also talk of the village actually shutting down in a few years. If this were to happen, SOS village would give the land back to the government, and the government would make the decision of what to do with the space and the children occupying the same. 

Of course, this prompted MANY questions. Where would the children go? Will they be able to stay with their families? Will they be separated? What will happen to the housemothers? None of these questions could be answered, and it left me feeling unsettled. The bond is so evident amongst these families, and it genuinely makes me incredibly emotional when I think about the fact that they could get separated and never see each other again. 

I truly hope there is some way to keep the children together. The SOS model fosters stability and creates a loving community that children statistically thrive in. They are supported, loved, nurtured, well-educated, and bright. What will happen to these children if that stability is taken away from them? Will it fundamentally change the trajectory of their life? I plan to keep up with SOS and hope that my questions will be answered in a positive way in the future. 

 

 

 

Day Six: Paint Stained Hands by Kylie Root

 

Today, we did the community service project. This was something that was very highly-anticipated by most everyone in the group. 

We did the service project for this organization called the Green Bamboo Children’s Center. After we learned about the work they did on day four, we understood the significance of the work we were to be doing. Our efforts on this day would be the beginnings of what would later become a room for children in an administrative building. The room would be used for classes for children in accordance with the services their administration offers. 

As soon as we got there, we got to work. The room in its organic state left a lot to be desired, but within an hour, we got almost the entire thing cleared out. The room was on the third floor, so many of us were exhausted, but we pushed through. It didn’t help that today felt like one of the hotter days, but that was perhaps due to the number of times we all went up and down those stairs. 

Once we got everything cleared out, some of us took a short water break, then we got back to work. We painted the window grates and had developed a well-oiled system between some of us where one team would go through with the initial coating, then another team would do the detailing. We got that done relatively quickly. All of us were covered near head-to-toe in paint that was extremely stubborn to get off. 

Finally, we sanded the walls and painted them with the first coat of primer. By this point, we were all absolutely exhausted, but we got the work done. By the time we had finished, we still had almost half a day to ourselves.

Once we finished, we got enough food to feed nearly a small army. I forget how many egg rolls I had but I know I inhaled them like a vacuum. I feel as though I can speak for most of the group with how absolutely starving we were afterwards. 

Although we did not get to see the entire room completed, we did a significant amount of work. Some people demolished cabinets, others moved them down the stairs, others swept, but we all contributed enough. We all had paint-stained hands by the end. 

Having even a small part in something to help make something better and increase accessibility to street children was really significant. Knowing that what we did will blossom into a room to help children in difficult circumstances meant a lot to myself, as well as many of my other colleagues. 

Once we were done, all of us took a much-needed shower and prepared for dinner after a long day of hard work. 

 

Day Five: The Mekong Delta by Jennifer Salazar

 

A highlight of our visit to Ho Chi Minh City was a day visit to the Mekong Delta. The Mekong Delta is one of the largest wetlands in Asia, and sustains a wide diversity of 450 species of fish, according to the World Wildlife Federation. The Mekong Delta also supports an abundance of rich agricultural activity, including rice cultivation. We boarded a boat to ford the Mekong River to visit one of its small island communities. Many rural and mountainous communities in Vietnam are economically disadvantaged and as a result, adults and children will migrate to cities to seek jobs. We’ve learned in visits with local NGOs that this poverty also creates opportunities for human traffickers to operate, leading to children and adults to “disappear” from their towns.

 

Here in the Mekong Delta, small island villages are showcasing their cultural traditions, lifestyle, and selling locally produced goods to tourists, generating additional revenue that helps sustain their communities. In this way, these island communities have effectively used their proximity to a major Vietnamese city - Saigon - to attract tourists and boost their own local economies and resilience in an environment that principally concentrates income in urban areas.

 

During our visit to the islands in Mekong Delta, we had the opportunity to sample fresh tropical fruits and honey from a local bee-keeping farm while enjoying traditional Vietnamese folk music performed by local residents. We boarded small canoes called sampans to journey through narrow, palm-lined canals. As we traveled these canals, we observed the many communities along the canal banks, and locals frequently paddled by us in their own sampams. Our hosts showed us how they craft candy from coconuts growing throughout the river delta. Two members of our group tried their hand at frying Vietnamese pancakes, made from rice flour, turmeric, coconut milk, and topped with cocktail shrimp and spring onion. We were fortunate to sample many local Vietnamese delicacies for lunch, including elephant ear fish (native to the Mekong Delta), a tomato-based tofu stew, bok choy and morning glory (water spinach).

 

In our time on the Mekong Delta, I was struck by the parallels with similar rural and indigenous communities I previously visited in Costa Rica. These agrarian communities around Tortuguero National Park and the BriBri reservation similarly embraced small-scale eco-tourism to sustain their way of life and provide a more secure livelihood for their communities. In a globally connected economy, there are tremendous challenges for small scale farming communities to prosper - be it from competition by large plantations owned by multinational corporations, volatile commodity pricing, pestilence (e.g. fungi destroying the cacao crop), to minimal government investment and infrastructure. Tourist revenue often concentrates in cities and coastal resort areas. Both in Costa Rica and Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, these vulnerable rural communities learned how to attract and wield tourism as a tool to guard against the disintegration of community and cultural ties in rural areas.

 

As we continue to learn more about the network of Vietnamese government and NGO support for child victims of human trafficking, today’s excursion highlighted the importance of developing and expanding economic opportunities for rural Vietnamese communities to provide a viable and durable alternative to the human trafficking market.

Day Four: The Meeting: Beginning of Our Service Project by Andrew Yuan

 

After a long day prior, the group had a much less busy day on that 14th of December. We started off with the usual routine - breakfast. Following this we went to the Green Bamboo Children’s Center to learn about their programming, and how our fundraising would be used to transform an unused room in the administrative building into a space for children’s programming.  At the Center, we met with Center staff and the Vice President of the Ho Chi Minh Child Welfare Association (one of Green Bamboo’s partners).

 

They explained that they offered services to any child who may need them. The age restrictions had recently loosened and services are offered to any child in need, including children from neighboring countries.  The need for their services has decreased, but it is different than before - perhaps because some of the criteria for who fit the parameters of their services has changed or perhaps because the rate of street children had gone down, but there are children who still need services. The services included education, parent courses, daycare, and other activities.

 

After hearing about their programs, we discussed our group’s community service project. They told us that we would be helping them restore one of their rooms in an administrative building. It would entail working with an administrator and a skilled worker to clear, clean, paint, and install a toilet (thankfully there is a skilled worker for that last one).

 

I think this briefing was an important one for us. Prior to, we had only a vague idea of what was going to transpire with the community service project. It also was important for us to understand their progress and how they promoted the welfare of children.

After this we visited a local Vietnamese McDonald’s which had a number of foods that would not be found in an American McDonald’s.

From here the group went to visit a local Capybara café which had dogs, cats, and Capybaras.  Those of us who went seemed to enjoy feeding the Capybaras!

 

We then visited the local Benh Thanh market where we haggled with some of the vendors for clothes and fake designer bags. I myself got some nice linen clothes for a good price.  We met up for dinner around 6:30 to close out the night, while we did try to eat at one of our friend Jeremy’s favorite spots, we ultimately ended up at a different restaurant for dinner which had nice seating that overlooked the street, and a variety of different foods that we enjoyed! It was a simple and relaxing day, which was needed before our visit to the Mekong River the next day and the community service project the day after that.

Day Three: Seeing Saigon by Francisco Luzania

 Our first major outing brought us to the War Remnants Museum. It’s a stop that is hard to put into words. The museum confronts visitors with unfiltered stories and images of the Vietnam War—or, as it’s known here, the War of American Aggression. As an American, walking through the exhibits was a humbling experience. Photographs of children affected by Agent Orange, stories of families torn apart, and displays of military machinery served as reminders of the human toll of conflict. It was especially difficult to see the long-term consequences of napalm and chemical warfare, which continue to impact generations today. The museum does not shy away from depicting the war’s atrocities. While sitting at one of the benches, I decided to do some research online about all the things that we had seen that day in the exhibits, including war crimes committed by soldiers on both sides. What struck me was the revelation that American soldiers were held accountable for these crimes—a fact that complicates our understanding of justice. For example, Lieutenant William Calley was court-martialed and found guilty for his role in the My Lai Massacre, a horrific event where hundreds of Vietnamese civilians, including women and children, were murdered. Though his punishment was reduced significantly, his conviction remains a historical acknowledgment of wrongdoing. These reminders forced me to grapple with both the horrific acts committed and the attempts—however insufficient—to reckon with them. Though tragic, we must continue to be fully honest as to the reality of history.

After the museum, we continued our exploration of the city in bicycle carriages, or cyclos. At first, the experience felt lighthearted—a fun way to see Saigon at a slower pace. Rolling through the chaotic streets allowed us to take in the vibrancy of life here: children playing, food stalls bustling, and motorbikes weaving like water through narrow alleys. But the further we went, the more complicated my feelings became. There was an undeniable element of privilege in sitting comfortably in a carriage while being pedaled through areas where people face significant hardships. This became even more apparent when we toured low-income housing neighborhoods after visiting the well-known Post Office near the Presidential Palace. Seeing the realities of poverty firsthand—homes made of patchwork materials, children playing in alleyways—was sobering. Yet there was also a visible strength and resilience. Families gathered for meals, neighbors leaned out of windows to chat, and kids and locals waved as we passed their stands and restaurants. The contrast between observing these communities as visitors made me reflect on how tourism intersects with deeper social realities.

One of the highlights of the trip so far was meeting with Blue Dragon, a Vietnamese NGO dedicated to protecting children and fighting human trafficking. Their work is both critical and multifaceted. Blue Dragon rescues children who are trafficked for labor or sexual exploitation, helps reunite families, and provides education and vocational training for at-risk youth. Hearing their stories was equal parts heartbreaking and inspiring. For these kids, education and stability are not just opportunities—they are lifelines. Blue Dragon’s focus on long-term solutions, such as addressing poverty and inequality, showed us how grassroots organizations can create meaningful change in the lives of vulnerable children. After that meeting, my classmates and I sat together to reflect on the day so far, particularly the experience of the War Remnants Museum. We shared a collective sadness for the immense suffering caused by the war, but our discussion also turned to the complexity of history. While the atrocities were undeniable, we grappled with the broader implications of the Cold War. The question arose: what would have happened if the U.S. and its allies had chosen not to intervene in Vietnam to stymie the spread of communism? Could a failure to act have led to even greater instability and disaster for the people of Southeast Asia? There were no easy answers, but the conversation underscored the importance of critically examining history from multiple perspectives—a skill we continue to sharpen on this program.

That evening, we had the opportunity to see a cultural gem: the Bamboo Circus performance at the Saigon Opera House. A mix of acrobatics, music, and storytelling, the performance was mesmerizing. Artists leapt and spun with breathtaking agility, using bamboo as their only props. The show beautifully captured the spirit of Vietnam—its creativity, strength, and connection to nature. And, as if to add a bit of drama to an already full day, our evening ended with a quintessential Southeast Asian experience: a torrential downpour. We had planned to find a spot for dinner nearby, but the sudden storm turned the streets into rivers. Undeterred, our group did not have rain jackets and umbrellas, so we just accepted being soaked, and began walking through the rain-soaked city. Laughing, slipping through puddles, and searching for shelter became an adventure in itself. Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we found a cozy restaurant and the shared experience made it all worth it.

As I sit here reflecting on these first days in Vietnam, I’m reminded of why I continue to take part in these study abroad programs. The privilege of seeing the world through a different lens, of learning firsthand how history, culture, and resilience shape a country, is unmatched. Whether it’s grappling with the legacies of war, being inspired by advocates fighting for children’s rights, or simply walking through the rain with new friends, this program has already left its mark.

Day Two: Tourism and Bui Vien Backing Packing Street by Carly Dederick

 

Wow, what a day! This is only day two for me (not including travel day), and I can't believe how exciting it is to wake up with so much anticipation for what the day will bring - and boy, did it deliver! The long flight from Seattle to Seoul definitely took a toll, so that warm, welcoming hotel bed last night was exactly what I needed. Speaking of our hotel, it's the perfect mix of being centrally located but just far enough out that you feel like you can escape some of the hustle and bustle. I was blessed to be on the 11th and top floor of our hotel and the view from my window is incredible - modern skyscrapers that blend into the beautiful and established trees. It is such a beautiful contrast and really sets the tone for the trip. 

 

After a solid night's rest and a delicious breakfast, we hit the ground running. Some of our classmates weren't in yet (so glad you made it to Ho Chi Minh City safely, Jennifer and Andrew!) so the group had the pleasure of getting to take a true "tourist" day and dive into the history and culture of the city. We started with visits to the HCMC History Museum and the Art Museum - both fascinating stops that gave us a deeper appreciation for Vietnam's rich artistry and heritage. Along the way, we made some incredible stops that really made the day memorable. First up was Nghe Coffee, a cozy local spot where we got to try traditional Vietnamese staples like egg coffee (beaten egg yolk with sweetened condensed milk on top a bitter and bold dark roast coffee) and coconut coffee (freshly brewed coffee topped with a mound of sweet and frothy coconut milk and condensed milk mixture). Both were so unique and delicious - I'm pretty sure I'll be dreaming about that coconut coffee for weeks! 

 

We also stumbled upon a couple of quaint, air-conditioned shops (remember it is 85+ degrees and 90% humidity!) that sold familiar music and movie posters which, of course, we couldn't resist picking up as momentos. From metalica to twilight, there is something so special about finding little treasures that make you feel connected to a place. To top it off, we stopped at a few local fruit stands along the way. The fresh coconuts were out of this world - ice cold, perfectly sweet, and exactly what Tori, Kylie, and I needed to cool off in the heat before heading into the museums.  

Similar to the city, the museums were full of people and stories to share; when we first walked into the history museum not only were we met with the beautiful architecture but couples posing in wedding dresses and sharp tuxedos! This made perfect sense given the French-inspired design - high vaulted ceilings, tall arched windows, grand facades, intricate detailing, and amazing natural light reflecting off the soft pastel-painted walls. While we later learned, by the sheer number of couples and how they seemed to interact with each other, that most couples may have been taking photos for a catalogue, it is no surprise photographers favor this spot - it's an absolutely picture-perfect setting! 

 

Vietnam is such a beautifully vibrant city, full of people that emanate passion, strength, and perseverance - something that is so easily portrayed both walking down the streets and within its museums. One exhibit that left the biggest impression on me, especially in terms of perseverance among women, featured Ngo Ba Thanh, a local female attorney and president of the Committee of Women. After doing some more research, sed and organized a Vietnamese women's association called "Right to Life" in response to the Vietnam War. The association, thousands strong, advocated for peace and women's liberation through political action and shrewd diplomacy, insisting on political neutrality and autonomy for women. Tragically, her activism led to her imprisonment in Chi Hoa prison, and the association was ultimately suppressed once Vietnam claimed victory. Despite this, her and the thousands of women's advocacy is a sterling example of Vietnamese women's ingenuity and resilience during a time when their voices were often silenced. 

 

After the museums and a light lunch at a favorite spot from Francisco, Andrew, and Buske, the group decided to take the afternoon to ourselves. Some of us relaxed with a pedicure or massage, while others opted for a different kind of self- care by getting their teeth cleaned at a local dentist's office. It's wild how many ways there are to unwind in the city, whether you are looking for a little pampering, a quiet moment to yourself, or even a more practical refresh (especially given the price differential between HCMC and the United States in dental care!). 

 

The last thing we got to do today was one of the most eye-opening experiences for me so far. Since I got to write the blog post today, I also got to pick where we ate for dinner. With a little help from Tori, I settled on a local spot on Bui Vien Street - the famous backpacker street in Saigon. It's well known for its restaurants, coffee shops, and hotels and, what I initially didn't realize, strip clubs and brothels. 

 

Our restaurant, which boasted an impressive seafood menu, ended up being more about the people-watching than the actual food (which I think most of us found to be fairly subpar given the 5+ star reviews). After dinner, we decided to walk down the street to take it all in because, how could you not? Within 300 feet we were surrounded by male and female dancers outside of clubs, loud pulsing music, and security guards waving cocktail menus, trying to guide us into their respective establishments. What hit me the hardest though, was within minutes we saw young children - some as young as 10 or so - selling lottery and gaming tickets along the street. It was jarring, to say the least as it is no place for a child. As we walked further, the child that I locked in on seemed to primarily interact with the security guards outside of the clubs they were working. It made me wonder - are these establishments also under the control of local gangs? The whole scene left me with a heavy feeling and was quite a sobering end to an otherwise exciting day. 

Day One: Exploring, Engaging & Embracing by Emily Almeida

 

Our first full day in Viet Nam started with breakfast (as all good days should start). The options, though, were a bit different from what you’d see in America. There were the more familiar breakfast foods, such as fresh fruit and toast, served alongside fried rice, pho, at least six different kinds of cooked eggs, and other savory choices. They also offer coffee, tea, water, and (the favorite of our group) Tang. That’s right, Tang! (Labeled as orange juice, but we can tell the difference).

After breakfast, we spoke a bit about what to expect for our time in-country, as well as what the itinerary would generally look like for the next few days. This conversation also led to us asking about how to spend money here, as it is a somewhat complicated conversion. Thankfully, Professor Buske was ready to help us with a conversion chart she made.

With some time to spare before a meeting at 2pm, we decided to explore the city a bit.  Within minutes of starting our adventure around town, we noticed something that would soon become an unfortunately familiar sight. A young girl, about seven or eight, was standing with a group of men and selling them lottery tickets. This was during school hours, yet here she was- collecting money from them in return for bright pink and blue tickets. We stopped under an awning a few feet away to quietly talk about what we saw, and the normalized exploitation of children that it represented.

Our walk around town continued, and we ended up going straight to the heart of the city first, located just a few blocks from where we’re staying. The market here is a lot like Pike Place Market in Seattle, Washington, though is about ten times more crowded. Some booths are separated by only two feet of space and filled to the brim with a variety of offerings. From candy to coffee to knock-off clothing, shoes, and handbags, it honestly seems like you can get anything at the market, and the shop owners are more than happy to haggle over the price.

Eventually, exploring the shops in the market got a bit overwhelming, so we took a Grab (equivalent of an Uber) to a different part of town. There, we spent a while at a stationary shop we found, then walked around this area of the city a bit more, popping into various shops that sparked our interest.

It was in this area of the city that we spotted our first school on the trip. It was sandwiched between two shops and was painted in bright colors that extended all the way to the metal gates that separated the school from the rest of the street. 

 

We took a short break in our adventures around the city in order to have a meeting with Anh Le Viet, the Country Director of Hagar. Hagar works to prevent exploitation of vulnerable populations in multiple countries through community education and policy reform, and also provides support to survivors of exploitation. In Viet Nam, their focus is on human trafficking, specifically trafficking for labor. Vulnerable populations to this form of exploitation include women and children, and the director informed us that trafficking most commonly occurs in villages near the borders of Cambodia and China. Victims of trafficking are also pulled from villages and moved to some of the larger cities in Viet Nam, such as Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, and Hoi An.

Our conversation with the director primarily focused on the exploitation of children. We asked about the sight we had seen earlier that day- the young girl selling lottery tickets instead of being in school- and we were informed that it was a common occurrence. The director explained that it was likely that her parents were impoverished, and in order to live, they sent their child to one of the gangs in the city. Whatever earnings that the child would make from selling lottery tickets would then be apportioned by the gang and his or her parents would then receive their cut. We learned that, for all of these children, a gang member is standing close by, keeping an eye on the money they receive and the sales they make in order to ensure that everything is in order. 

Another example of child exploitation that was startling to learn about was the trafficking of infants from villages. We learned that parents may sell their baby to traffickers for the equivalent of about $5,000 USD. The baby is then sent to another country, often China. The most desirable babies are girls, we were informed, because of the lack of girls in some nearby countries. Trafficking most often is initiated by organized crime rings, we learned, and can frequently come from a victim’s family member, friend, neighbor, or trusted colleague. 

Many of the education efforts that Hagar is currently engaged in specifically work to inform those in remote villages about the possibility of being trafficked from someone they may trust, and also educate about common trafficking ploys, such as lucrative work offers or a full-ride scholarship to a school in the city for children.

We spent some time reflecting on our conversation as a group after our meeting ended, then received a more detailed itinerary of what the next two weeks would look like from Professor Buske. Though three of our classmates were yet to arrive (due to this trip being scheduled during/immediately following final exams), the excitement and growing comradery of our group was palpable.

Our day ended with a walk down a nearby alley to visit a Bahn Mi restaurant, where many of us had the first-time experience of eating with plastic gloves on (in order to stay sanitary, we were informed by the waitress). The food was delicious, and served as the perfect way to punctuate our first day of exploring the city, engaging in the subject matter for this class, and embracing all of the new experiences presented to us.

 

Early Adventures by Francisco Luzania

 [This year, some students travelled to Vietnam when they finished exams and were able to join me in Saigon for a few days before the beginning of the program.  ~ buske]

Another international children's rights study abroad program. Another multiple day of travel itineraries to our destination. Another chance to see this great wide world that we live in from another perspective, immersed in another culture. At some point one would think that the novelty of traveling to new places on the planet would lessen or, at the very least, become less impactful. But right at the outset of my third ICR program, I can attest that could not be further from the truth. Of all the countries that I have visited, I think Vietnam is the one country that I thought I was the most prepared for. Every American is at least somewhat familiar with the nearly 30-year conflict here that spanned across five American presidents. The effects of America's involvement in Vietnam are still felt in our own country, and in Vietnam itself, decades after the last US helicopter left Saigon. Yet here I am with a group of aspiring attorneys, and a Professor to gain a deeper and more meaningful understanding of the plight of children in Vietnam.  

After nearly a full day of flights and transfers, finally landing in Ho Chi Minh City airport was about as anticlimactic as one can imagine. My first interaction with this country was with the dreaded symbol of government bureaucracy: lines. Going through customs in Vietnam was  one of those experiences that reminds you that, regardless of where you are in the world, humans and processes don't really change. It took an exorbitant amount of time to pass through customs, but once I did, I located our driver and headed to the hotel. After a full night's rest, I hit the ground running and took on the streets of Saigon. Indiscriminately walking in different directions, up alleys, down side streets, and across parks; I did everything I could on my first day to immerse myself. With a newly purchased baseball cap, my headphones, and a pre-selected playlist, I walked blocks to see this new environment that myself and the other students would be in for the next few weeks. In doing so, I made my first observation about this very busy country. And by busy, I mean busy. Everywhere I went, even for the people that weren't necessarily doing any sort of recognizable work, nobody was idle. The city and its people were constantly in motion. Everybody was doing something with intent, everybody was going somewhere with a purpose, and everything was moving in a symmetrical, but chaotic fashion. The thought and prospect of having to drive in a city such as this is daunting. But as a pedestrian who is able to observe as a simple foreigner, it was like watching an orchestra of chaos, beautiful and chaotic.  

While I was walking, I stumbled upon a tour center that offered a litany of different options to explore Vietnamese culture and the surrounding region. Being an ardent fan of history, I decided to do a tour of the Viet Cong tunnels that had existed during the Vietnam War. The price was a bargain, and the purpose was profound. We can read dozens of books about the conflict that many of our countrymen, and even more Vietnamese, fought and died in, but having the opportunity to see the conflict area was something that I could not pass up. So, as the only American on our tour, I began the two hour bus ride journey to the Chu Chi tunnel system. On the way there, our tour guide, a young Vietnamese girl who said her grandfather was a loyal Vietcong fighter, gave us a very in-depth perspective on what the conflict looked like from the eyes of the Vietnamese people. This is when I got my first dose of reality: in this country, it is not known as the Vietnam War, but the War of American Aggression. For the next two hours our tour guide gave us both personal and national stories about the toll that the war had on the country and its people. I learned how the United States military purposefully bombed and poisoned rice paddies. I learned how Vietnamese people built tunnels underneath their own homes to protect themselves from napalm bombs, and I heard how the end of the war was not the beginning of tranquility in this country, but the beginning of a period of resilience Vietnam continues to display. That America left behind scars, a shattered government, and a broken populace is well known. But learning that we also left behind the conditions created for famine and economic despair, incited feelings of sorrow and shame in me. Story after story was told about the atrocities committed by the combatants against each other and against civilians. This made me as an American slink down in my chair and pull the brim of my hat just a little bit lower. For all the extraordinary qualities that the United States of America has, we still engaged in some incredibly dark moments and actions in the goal of “freedom”.

 

Finally, arriving at the tunnel system, my feelings of reflection did not change, but they did amplify. For the next two hours we searched huts, walked through tunnels, watched traps being used in the way that they were intended. The next two hours were up close and personal lessons on how the Vietnamese people defended themselves against foreign incursions. Once again, as an American, I felt a striking sadness for the people of Vietnam, who fought for their homeland, and for the young men of the United States military, who faced these conditions. Bamboo traps that were poisoned, trap doors with bombs, and extensive tunnel systems with sniper holes created an environment of absolute horror for all those involved in the conflict. This lesson in history was one of the most beneficial things I think I could've done upon arriving in Vietnam. Again, we Americans are so privileged in that we can simply read about history, but other people  experienced the trials and tribulations first hand.  But something will always stick with me as I was going to the tour was that the workers and the tour guide did not have any sense of anger or resentment; instead, they had was a sense of national pride and joy in showing people from all over the world how the Vietnamese people fight against empires from far-reaching places. There was a feeling of resilience to everything that they were saying, a feeling of pride, and how they spoke about the conflict and their country today, and, most surprising to me, a ton of appreciation for those of us who would take time to come see firsthand what it took for the people of Vietnam to fight for their freedom. 

 

On the two-hour trip back to the city, I stared out the window, looking at the streets and watching the people.  I had the same feeling that I had at the start of the tour. The people of this country have pride. The people of this country have purpose. Even those people who are toiling around the streets seem to be walking and doing things with the same intent as the most active shopkeepers. In this country there does not seem to be any desire to be idle. There does not seem to be a desire to remain in the past.  There does not seem to be a feeling of resentment or regret. There only seems to be a feeling of excitement for building a bigger and better society. And engaging with the rest of the  world on the terms of the Vietnamese people. Something that I think they had always wanted, but foreign powers refuse to accept. As we in the program start barreling towards our academic curriculum while in the country, I am incredibly grateful to have done this tour on in my first day in Vietnam. Going into this tour, with a sense of not trying to justify the events of the past, but understanding them, and using them as a building block in my understanding of this complex country is something that I think will serve me greatly. Never has my perspective been changed so much from what I’ve read to what I’ve seen.  I really look forward to growing my appreciation for the Vietnamese people, and the plight of all those who still feel the reverberating consequences of the war of foreign aggression. So here I am on my third ICR program ready to continue to immerse myself and see how people from across the planet address the same issues that the men, women and children of my country, the United States of America, address the issues of human rights.

 

ICR Vietnam - December 2024

 I'm delighted to be travelling with another group of amazing Willamette Law students on another ICR program.  This time we're in Vietnam studying child trafficking.  It is wonderfully hot and humid here and I'm so looking forward to watching everyone take it all in, learn, grow, and come together as a group.  This is my 4th Willamette Law international program.  On each program, I have been amazed and humbled by the group of students who are willing to come on these adventures.  I ask a lot of them -- I push them out of their comfort zones almost daily and generally ask them to reconsider much of what they think they already know. . . and to do it in circumstances that are often challenging.  Every single time I've been amazed by them -- they have shown kindness, good cheer, curiosity and a willingness to learn.  They are supportive of each other and genuinely interested in what we are learning and the people around us.  I could not be more proud to travel with these guys.  Joining me this time are:  

Andrew Stephens (his third program)

Francisco Luzania (his third program)

Emily Almeida (her second program)

Carly Dederick (first adventure)

Kylie Root (first adventure)

Jennifer Salazar (first adventure)

Tori Sparks (first adventure)

Andrew Yuan (first adventure)

And we're off -- come follow along!   Professor Buske