Poa Kichizi - by Tara Zak

Final day of safari: We learned that despite its name, Ngorongoro is a caldera, not a crater. Eki, our guide, says that to be called a crater, there has to be proof of a meteorite impact. He says we’re the happiest travelers. That we make other grumpy, quiet travelers look bad.

He tells us a story about his wife: During her training as a chef, she took a final exam. One of the questions was “Which is the best rice?” The answers were:

             a) Biryani

             b) Coconut

             c) Steamed

             d) Condoleezza

The Tanzanian children learn Swahili and English. They know American presidents, geography, and colonial history. Most people in our truck didn’t know who Condoleezza Rice was.

James asks Eki if Tanzanians have superheroes. He says that a Maasai (an iconic shepherd people) superhero is the one that throws the spear into the lion first. Today, the Maasai wrestle bulls to achieve a similar feat. A Bushman superhero is the one who hits the one-inch thick snake in a tree with their spear. He says that Tanzanian academics with triple A’s are superheroes. Drivers with no accidents for many years are superheroes. But superheroes are changing, he says. To some, they are the ones with the most cows (or the most money).

Tanzanians have Bongowood and Bongo music. Eki says “bongo” means “use your brain”. It’s the country's motto. It means to be smart, creative, innovative, and hardworking.

We had a brisk, misty, slow descent into the crater (caldera). In the green, tall grass there were two elephants (tembo); so big they looked large even from our vantage point hundreds of yards away. We learned that mostly males venture into Ngorongoro. The elephants were large, gray, and wrinkly with torn ears and broken tusks. Eki says they go to “retire” in the crater. I wonder about elephant graveyards. It’s a myth, he says. Poachers used the lie to explain slaughter grounds. However, it’s true that elephants become emotional when they see the bones of other elephants. They moan when they pass, recognizing lost family.

Just at the precipice of the crater floor, two lions (simba) hang lazily in a low acacia tree. Eki hears over the radio that a kill was made and so we move in search of the feast. Upon turning, a large male lion saunters up the dirt road towards us, his belly low to the ground. Eki says that after a meal, lions can stay full for up to 3 days.

We find the kill. Hyenas (Hisi) and vultures (tai) are surrounding a bloody patch of grass, popping up and peering into the distance periodically. We recognize the distinct shape of water buffalo (mbogo) horns. A large hyena drags a hoofed leg through the grass. A very small hyena waits 10 yards away in the dirt, his head perched not-so-patiently on his front paws. He skitters up to the group, chases away vultures, and starts to whimper as no one lets him into the kill. Obviously frustrated, he begins whooping a loud, low, bellowing sound that echoes between our ears. We all become quiet in the truck: buffalo bones crackling, hyena paws shuffling, the batting wings of jumping buzzards, the angsty whooping of a hungry pup.

We search for grazing gazelle (swala) and zebra (pundamilia) near the outskirts of the lake where the road has been washed away by November rains. Eki says that the Thompson gazelle (sawa tomi) are the lion equivalent of McDonald’s: fast food. Warthog (Ngiri) prance near the road, whipping their thin tails wildly (reminds me of Lord of the Flies). Eland gazelle (Pofu) stand stiff and tense in the tall grass (remines me of the forest king in Princess Mononoke). Zebra twist their necks as they stand together. By utilizing their stripes, they can disguise their true numbers from predators. An ostrich (mbuni) passes across the road, flailing its black and white wings, craning its neck into the dirt.

Fastest, in order:

1. Cheetah (Duma)

2. Ostrich

3. Topi (Nyamera)

4. Thompson gazelle

(Eki, 2024)

We search for the rare and elusive rhino (kifaru). A 400-strong herd of zebra graze in the rolling hills overgrown with sweet smelling, bright orange marigolds. Eki says they are invasive. He spots a hippo (kiboko) hundreds and hundreds of yards away, deeper down the valley, walking from pond to river’s edge. An impressive feat. We gaze through binoculars, struggling to find it.

An enormous male lion becomes startled as we barrel down the dirt road. Tail whipping in circles like an angry house cat, he quickly slinks into the tall grass. We sit silently waiting for him to reappear. He never does. Eki is incredulous. Male lions are, on average, 450 lbs. Soon after, maybe 4 miles away, we see a set of 3 lion ears in the grass. However, none were the disappeared male.

Male wildebeest (nyumbu) circle various clusters, belching a deep and onerous bleat, looking for challengers and often finding them. James mimics the sound and the nearest wildebeest become helplessly confused as to who to fight. Apparently, they are tasty meat.

Zebras roll in the same patch of dirt as their family members to drench themselves in the scent. Zebra family cologne, Eki says. They also roll to readjust their stomachs.

Ngorongoro is not Swahili. It was named by the British colonizers and is an onomatopoeia of Maasai cow bells ringing in the valley. This is the only park the Maasai can still graze their herds in.

A Swahili proverb: If you wait, the bananas will ripen.

Every truck must survive the embarrassment of a knot in a tree being mistaken for a sleeping lion.

Sodom apples were said to be the first plant to grow after Sodom and Gomorrah fell. 

RHINO: A black rhino far, far into the distance across the plains. Rangers keep a constant eye on the park rhinos from watch towers peppered throughout the park. If ever they lose sight of one, there is an immediate alert. The black market price is $500,000 for one. There are roughly 22 in the park, but the rangers never release the actual number. Some cultures use their horns to make ceremonial daggers. Others believe the horns are aphrodisiacs. At least the world can agree that poaching is bad.

On the long ride back to Arusha, we talk about Tanzania. Eki is curious about Oregon: How far is it from New York? He’s not impressed by the cascading waterfalls, etched deep into the vine covered stone cliffs. Tall buildings with lots of glass are wow, he says. He wants to see the Nile and the Egyptian rift valley–the other side of the Tanzanian rift valley. 

We stopped at a gas station just outside the park. Men and women with jewelry, shirts, and Swahili books surround the truck, talking to us through our open windows. I let them know that I don’t have any money (a truth) and they move onto the next window. Mr. Cheap, as he calls himself, is trying to charm Andrew to no avail. He pulls out some necklaces and one catches my eye. I ask to see them and the vendors swarm my window. I ask the truck for 15,000 shillings and take it. Very happy with my purchase.

Eki says Tanzania is a rumor country. If James Mzungu (white traveler) pees on the side of the road in Kuratu, by the time we get to Arusha, Eki will hear about it.

Mto wa Mbu (Mosquito River) is my favorite town: bustling, jungle verdant, shaded, full of bushels of bananas in woven green baskets along the roadside. Women in bright patterns peddle fruit from baskets perched atop their head into dala dala (minibus taxi) windows. Teen girls walk together: one in a red flowing burka, another in a gingham red shuka (traditional Maasai clothing; a wrap), a third in a t-shirt and jeans. Eki says that all tribes live here. And in relative harmony, I see. 

Further down the highway, a man holds bushels of shining Nile perch (sangara). Eki says that if you hang them from your side mirror and drive, they’ll still be fresh when you get to Arusha. A truck soon passes with a bundle of fish hanging from their rear windshield wiper.

Maasai, Maasai, Maasai: In red, tall with staffs by the roadside looking stoic onto the passersby. Walking in twos, tall and glittering. She carries a wrapped baby on her back. Another boy draped in bright yellow, riding a shiny well-kept motorcycle. He’s ducking, arms out, his shuka whipping in the wind. Three women in three layers (3 layers means they are married) walking bent with tidy, wrapped bushels of branches on their backs.

Choose Your Adventure -- by James Dunning

Today our safari continued leaving Tarangire Park bound for Lake Manyara. Our unofficial motto has become “choose your adventure” inspired by the children’s story many of us enjoyed as youths. Shortly after our departure our guide quickly pulled off the road. His keen eye had spotted a tiny creature. Directly in our path was the iconic imagine from countless Africa documentaries. A dung beetle was slowing making its way with a fresh collection. Once everyone had check off their imaginary wildlife bingo cards our journey resumed. 

The terrain quickly changed from a mostly dry grassy plain to temperate agricultural farms. Along the way we learned about the incredible transformation taking place across the country. Half of all Tanzanians are employed in agriculture. Farmers were happy to show us the abundance of their harvest. Rice and millet field rolled by us for mile after mile. 

Tanzania is experiencing an immense boom in infrastructure as it develops hydroelectric and natural gas resources. Tanzanians access to electric supply has more than doubled in the past decade. 

Despite increases in economic prosperity, there is still a significant amount of observable poverty. Deep on a rural road we were unexpectedly greeted by a family of acrobatic performers. Our whole group cheered on the impressive demonstration of creativity and skill. 

Our main activity for the day was traveling through Lake Manyara National Park. Much of the land had been overtaken by significantly high rains from the previous season. Raising water pushed the shoreline out by nearly a kilometer making it extremely difficult to pass many of the roads. Shortly after getting on the move following lunch, we were confronted by the king of the jungle. A lioness stood square in our path. It’s difficult to know who was more startled. Without question none of us had come this close to such a magnificent beast. 

We could hardly catch our breath before coming across a family of elephants. The baby was very curious about our presence. Both adults tossed dirt over themselves while the little one rolled about frequently paused to give us suspicious glances. 

Nearing the exit of the park, a small herd of buffalo was seen lazing about the bank of a river. Knowing their propensity for aggressive behavior, we kept our distance. 

The town of Karatu was the holdover for the evening. As it happened, the timing of our visit coincided with a local bimonthly market. Vendors sell handicrafts, livestock, food, spices, clothing, household goods, pottery, and other items.

Upon arrival at our accommodations for the night, we were received by a pair of jackals. Taking in the view from our balcony of what was to come the next day (Ngorongoro Crater National Park), their presence felt like a good omen. 

In the Thick of It -- by Tina Thao

 Thump, thump, thump. My heart beated faster and faster each time our truck crossed into the oncoming traffic lane to pass slower cars or when cars crossed into our lane, barely making it back into theirs, avoiding a head on collision. The driving here felt like the game of frogger and I was so thankful for Eki- our guide and driver. The driving in Tanzania is on another level and as a self proclaimed bad driver, I sighed in relief that I would never have to drive in Tanzania because I would not make it far.

The hour drive from Arusha to Tarangire National Park passed by with a blink of an eye as each inch of area we saw was new to us. My eyes widened in awe and curiosity as we passed Maasai homes, the large termite hills, a military base, communities, child workers corralling cattle and goats, and the vast beauty of the land.

As we pulled up to Tarangire National Park, I felt the tingle of excitement come over me. There was already so much to see- the colorful birds flocking around, animal skulls lining the pathway, and the hill of animal remains.  

Within minutes of passing through the safari gates, we came across a group of elephants. They were so majestic, beautiful, and slowly grazed on morning glories some distance away. However, after a few minutes they ate their way closer to our truck and to our surprise, a baby elephant had been hiding behind one of the bigger elephants. It was sooo small and looked so happy while it ran around. This is how elephants are supposed to live, free.

Eki asked if we thought the elephants were right handed or left and why. We all made failed attempts guessing. Some asked, “Was it which side of the mouth they chewed on? Was it the side of the longer tusk?” Eki explained that at the end of one of their husks was a small circle that showed if they were right or left handed. 

The animal I loved seeing the most were the lions. They reminded me of my kitty Sammi. They looked so peaceful napping on the tree with no care in the world to what was around, even us. I could’ve watched them for hours. 

We traversed through the vast safari for hours. I hung my head out the top of the truck, closed my eyes and breathed in the fresh air - hints of mint and hibiscus flowers filled my body. I was like a dog with their head out the window. Everyone’s laughter consumed the air. This was pure bliss. I was living my best life, nothing compared to this feeling.

And So It Begins -- Sarah Griffith

 The journey began months ago, almost a full year ago for me. In the summer of 2023, I took an Elder Law course with Professor Cook, and there were a handful of students, plus the professor had just returned from the International Children’s Rights class that was part of an in-country experience in Tanzania. Their stories about the experience were intriguing; everything they discussed, from the people they met to the locations they visited, had me hooked, and I knew that I had to take advantage of the opportunity provided by Professor Buske the following summer. As law students, we spend most of our time studying, reading, and learning law. However, law school offers few opportunities to experience law in the “real” world, much less internationally. Now, as a 3L beginning to see the finish line, with graduation and the bar exam looming in the not-so-distant future, the opportunity to study International Children’s Rights in Tanzania spoke to me, and I had to jump at the opportunity. The anticipation of travel has finally concluded, and we begin our trip to Tanzania at PDX. Nine thousand two hundred sixty-four miles between Salem, Oregon and Arusha, Tanzania, two, ten-hour flights and we finally arrive.

Our diverse group of 7 students ranges from new to seasoned international travelers, yet we are all equally excited. While there is an understanding that this trip is not a vacation, our goals and desires vary for each student. Yet, all of us want to take our law school curriculum and use it in an authentic world way. After spending the last week in class, reading, and discussing the challenges of the Convention on the Rights of the Child (CRC) and how it is applied in some African countries, we must take our experience out of the classroom and into the real world. The United Nations CRC is an international treaty that establishes a global child and the rights that this global child should have, which the state should establish. The 54 Articles include children's economic, social, health, civil, and cultural rights. The United States is the only country that has yet to ratify the CRC, and we had interesting discussions about why that is. Taking this information into the trip was both exciting and heavy. The content is disturbing because it is difficult to understand, especially from a privileged position. It’s hard to know why children aren’t cherished, and that’s why this class is so important.

Professor Buske has been clear that while she is creating an itinerary for us, it is all subject to change. She introduced us to the phrase TIA—This is Africa, which is the phrase that lets us embrace the flexibility of a country that isn’t going to cater to us.  Our day-to-day is not set in stone, yet some of the aspects of the trip that I am most looking forward to include working directly with the children to understand how, as attorneys, we can make the world a better place. It will be interesting to see how Tanzania children are educated, how they are treated when they lose their parents, and what we can do as Americans to help these children.

After a long day of travel, we finally arrived in the evening. The air was humid, yet a distinct freshness and floral smell existed. We are greeted by Buske’s friends, Earnest and Eki; they welcome us with friendly grins and enthusiastic demeanors. Eki teaches us Swahili as we drive to the Arusha, and our group is captivated by the cutthroat driving and the dark scenery. Upon arriving at the Outpost, the staff was so kind as to stay late to provide us with a delicious dinner of curried chicken. We devour our dinner and head to our rooms, excited and exhausted about the Tanzania adventure that awaits us.